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Our walk starts from Monsal Head which
overlooks Monsal Dale and Monsal Trail. The trail follows the route of the
old Midland Railway line that ran through the valley from 1863 until 1968.
When the route of the railway was proposed it provoked strong opposition due
to the effect on the countryside. John Ruskin wrote at the time, "There was
a rocky valley between Buxton and Bakewell, once upon a time as divine as
the Vale of Tempe; you might have seen the Gods there morning and evening -
Apollo and all the sweet Muses of the light - walking in fair procession on
the lawns of it, and to and fro among the pinnacles of its crags. You cared
neither for Gods or cash (which you did not know the way to get) you thought
you could get it by what the Times calls 'Railway Enterprise'. You
enterprised a railroad through the valley - you blasted its rocks away,
heaped thousands of tons of shale into its lovely stream. The valley is gone
and the Gods with it, and now every fool in Buxton can be at Bakewell in
half and hour and every fool in Bakewell at Buxton; which you think a
lucrative process of exchange - you fools everywhere." |
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With the railway long gone and the embankments
clothed in vegetation the area is now considered a site of special
scientific interest; the viaduct that used to carry the railroad over the
river Wye is listed as being of 'architectural and historic interest'. The
trail reaches towards Buxton, as far as Wye Dale about 5 miles away. |
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Heading downstream the Wye from Monsal Head in
the direction of Ashford you pass the impressive weir on the river, through
meadows perfect for picnics and the steep wooded valley, carved out by the
river over millions of years.. |
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There was a real flavour of summer in the air
with the cold easterly winds of last week receded, even the locals were
making the most of it. If you do plan on visiting the area be warned that
the drop from Monsal Head, where there is car parking and refreshments, to
the River Wye down below is quite steep. |
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